스타들, 주한 대사들 앙드레김 애도물결

Diplomats, celebrities mourn icon

 

Friends, acquaintances and even influential public figures ceaselessly stopped by to pay respects to Korea’s fashion industry pioneer Andre Kim at the Seoul National University Hospital mortuary in Yeongeon-dong on Thursday and Friday.

The top South Korean designer died at around 7: 25 p.m. on Thursday after being treated for colorectal cancer and pneumonia.  He had been fighting cancer for several months and was hospitalized at an intensive care unit last month due to deteriorating health.

The funeral parlor was quiet and solemn even though it overflowed with mourners and reporters.

Staff members of the Andre Kim Atelier, clad in black skirts and white blouses with puffed shoulders and bearing the Andre Kim signature label, were often spotted coming in and out to cater to the visitors.

Culture minister Yu In-chon arrived at the hospital around 11:40 p.m. on Thursday and offered his condolences to Kim’s surviving family members. Kim, who was unmarried, is survived by a son he adopted in 1982 and two grandchildren.

Andre Kim is seen in this 1992 photo with Princess Josephine- Charlotte of Luxembourg during his post-fashion show reception. The fashion show was from an invitation by the IOC. (Yonhap News)

Many actors, actresses, comedians and singers including Won Bin, Choi Bul-am, Yu Jae-seok, Jeon Do-yeon, Kim Hee-sun, Jo Su-mi and Ha Chun-hwa visited the funeral parlor during the two days.

The fashion king was always very close with celebrities, as the main features of his fashion shows were always the top actors, actresses or sports stars of the moment. He had even established the Best Star Award in 2004 to award meritorious stars for their contributions to the development of the country’s popular culture and arts.

Foreign ambassadors and their wives and children often modeled for Kim’s shows as well.

“My wife and I were very good friends with Andre, he was very kind when we first arrived to Korea and his friendship with my wife blossomed throughout the years,” said Rafael A. Salazar, envoy from Guatemala. Salazar and his wife had modeled for some of Kim’s shows.

“We appreciate all that Andre did for our relationship with Korea. We will miss him very much. He was a good friend to us,” said Salazar.

“He was well known to the Australian Embassy and we express our deepest regrets. He is a man who contributed greatly to Korea’s cultural and social life over the past several decades,” said an Australian Embassy spokesperson.

The rites of placing Kim’s body in a coffin began at 5 p.m. Friday following the Buddhist tradition. The designer was Buddhist.

The funeral procession will leave the hospital on Sunday at 6 a.m. It will pass by his house, where he lived for more than 30 years, and then his boutique, followed by his new atelier that was built last year. He will be buried at the Cheonan Memorial Park in Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province. Kim chose the site when he was alive because it is where his parents were laid to rest.

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)

앙드레김을 기억하다**

Remembering Andre Kim, 'the magician from fairyland'

 

Veteran fashion designer Andre Kim, who died of pneumonia Thursday, aged 74, left some unforgettable, significant traces in fashion history.

Born Kim Bong-nam in Gupabal-ri in Goyang city, which is now included in Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, on Aug. 24, 1935, Kim started to show his extraordinary talents as a teen, when he enjoyed sketching women in graceful dresses.

“There was no such word as ‘fashion’ or ‘designer’ at the time. I opened my eyes to clothes and art through movies,” Kim said in a TV interview in May 2006.

After graduating Hanyoung High School, Kim studied fashion at Kukje Fashion Design Academy and made his debute as a fashion designer in 1962, at the age of 27. He opened his boutique “Salon Andre” in Sogong-dong, the same year.

Kim was in the limelight from the very beginning of his career, being the first and only male designer for a long time. Kim carved his own path as a designer, proving how beautiful Western dresses created by a man could look on Korean women by dressing top actresses in the 1960s such as Eom Aeng-ran.

His glamorous gowns and wedding dresses were soon acknowledged around the world -- particularly after a successful fashion show in Paris in 1966. His creations were accorded rave reviews from French fashion editors, including one at Le Figaro who called him a “Magician from Fairyland.”

Korea at the time was still a “hermit kingdom” to many countries around the world. Andre Kim was one of the first Koreans to put the country on the world map.

After that pioneering step, Kim held fashion shows at least a couple times every year in major cities around the globe, including Washington, D.C., New York, Honolulu, Singapore, Jakarta and Los Angeles.

Kim became more adventurous as the years passed and chose exotic locations for his fashion shows that were known for their elements of fantasy. He was the first fashion designer ever to stage a gala fashion parade in front of the Pyramids and the Sphinx in Egypt, in 1996. The show was given the honor of the rare presence of Madam Susan Mubarak, the First Lady of the country.

He also held a show in front of another world-famous landmark, Ankor Wat in Cambodia, ten years later. The only cultural event held in Ankor Wat until then had been a performance by Jose Carreras in 2002.

Wherever the venue was, Kim mesmerized the audience with his stunning shows. They were known for featuring the top celebrities of the moment, including actresses Lee Young-ae, Kim Hee-seon, Han Chae-young, Kim Tae-hee, actors Jang Dong-gun, Song Seung-heon, Lee Byung-heon and even sports stars Lee Seung-yub and Lee Dong-guk. Showbiz insiders used to say that one finally gets approved as a star only after being featured as the main model at Andre Kim’s shows.

“Professional models are chic but they have limits in expressing feelings. Actors and actresses, on the other hand, can touch the audience by offering a dramatic show,” Kim said.

Up until his last show held in Beijing in March, Kim scrupulously took care of every single detail.

He died on Thursday from complications of pneumonia and colorectal cancer, at the age of 74. (Park Hae-mook/The Korea Herald)

“A fashion show is a total art. It should move the audience’s hearts as if they were watching the highlight scenes of an opera or a musical. That is why I personally write the scenarios, mix the background music and direct all of my shows. At the final rehearsal, I teach the models how they should act and make their facial expressions,” Kim said in May 2005.

For his splendid works and efforts to promote fashion, Kim was honored by numerous organizations during his lifetime.

Finalists of the "2010 Super Model Competition" come to pay respect to the late fashion icon Andre Kim at the Seoul National University Hospital on Friday. (Park Hae-mook/The Korea Herald)

Kim was selected as the main designer for the Miss Universe Competition in 1980, designed the Korean national team’s uniforms for the 1988 Seoul Olympics and was invited by the International Olympic Committee to stage shows for the Olympics in Barcelona and Atlanta.

He was awarded the Order of Cultural Merits by the government in 1977, received the Culture medal from the President of Italy in 1982, and the Art and Literature medal from the French government in 2000. The mayor of San Francisco even declared Nov. 16 and Oct. 18 as “Andre Kim Day,” in 1999 and 2003, respectively.

His name became more of a brand in his later days. Kim had cultivated the Andre Kim brand, associated with luxury and romanticism, by lending his name to a wide range of goods including golf wear, eye wear, jewelry, underwear, children’s clothing, bedding, home lighting, porcelain dishware, household appliances, wallpaper, and even credit cards.

“The name is being used in various realms but I have a principle of collaborating with only the companies that fit into the image of my designs. Some private lenders and tobacco companies recently made some offers but I declined them,” he said in an interview with a local newspaper in May, 2009.

The designer Andre Kim was very thorough at work, reading 19 newspapers and watching news from five different channels every morning. But Andre Kim as a private person was rather artless and pure.

The lobby scandal in 1999 -- in which Lee Hyung-ja, wife of Sindonga Group president Choi Sun-young was alleged to have lobbied wives of high-profile figures with expensive garments -- unexpectedly reversed the public’s prejudices about the nation’s most famous designer that he must have made a fortune selling overpriced clothes to the wealthy.

At the hearings, which Kim had to go through because garments he designed were involved in the scandal, it was revealed that Kim only used fabrics made in Korea, was an honest tax payer and that he still worked in a rented boutique.

“I learned a big lesson from the scandal, that there is always a good end if the person is honest. No matter how unfairly you are treated, or how much you suffer from misunderstanding, it will be turned into a blessing and truth will be revealed in the end if you hang in there, being honest,” Kim said, ten years after the scandal blew over.

Kim became more of a celebrity after the scandal, in a good way. The public felt closer to Kim -- partly because his rather rustic real name was revealed during the hearing -- and everything about him was the talk of town, from his makeup, hairstyle to the way he decks out in all-white, something he maintained since 1974. His unique way of speaking, especially, inspired many comedians.

“I found it a bit unpleasant at first, because I thought they were ridiculing me. But seeing people racing toward me to ask for my autograph whenever I went out, I feel like I am becoming a star. Now I consider it as a sort of popularity. Although I cannot find one who perfectly mimics me, yet,” he would say with a laugh.

He never married but adopted an 18-month-old boy in 1982. Kim Jung-do, his adopted son, was the designer’s treasure. Kim received attention for how hard he cried the day his son married in February 2004.

The fashion maestro still had more dreams to pursue and believed he would live longer, just as his fans had also hoped for.

“Georgio Armani, who is one year older than me, still actively works without having named a successor. I think I can focus on creating my works for at least the next 10 years. And then I will think of naming a successor,” he said in an interview last year.

“Later on, I would like to make a documentary movie about ‘Andre Kim.’ It would be great to leave a record of my fashion world.”

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)

올리브앤코; 미술작품이 그려진 티셔츠

Wear your art on your short sleeve

 

Some of Korea’s hottest contemporary artists have been offered a new way to promote their works -- through fashion.

Olive & Company, an apparel trading firm based in Korea, joined hands with Gana Art Gallery and Gallery LVS and launched a fashion brand named “Olivenco” last week.

The brand features T-shirts and bags featuring artworks by 13 artists such as Bae Bien-u, Seo Sukwon, Mari Kim, Wee Young-il and Kang Young-min.

“This will be an opportunity to familiarize the public with high-end culture and promote Korean artists in the world market,” said Olive Kim, president of Olive & Company, at a press conference last week.

While there have been collaborations between artists and companies that produce various goods like stationery, clothes, furniture and cars, the launching of Olivenco is notable because it is not another one-time project but a brand with long-term goals, aiming for the overseas market.

Artist Kang Young-min’s painting and T-shirts featuring his works                                      Olivenco

The brand’s lines will be distributed worldwide through specialty chain stores which include GAP, Limited too, Express and Chico’s. Olivenco already inked a contract with GAP to export 2.5 million T-shirts to the U.S. market starting August or September.

Olivenco expects to make more than 12 billion won ($10 million) worth of sales per year through the exportations, explained Kim.

“We plan on increasing the number of participating artists to 100 with the help from Gana Art Gallery and Gallery LVS. Japanese artist Takashi Murakami leaped to fame after collaborating with Louis Vuitton. We want to set examples like that,” said Kim. 　

Once the artists successfully gain recognition in other countries through the T-shirt sales, the organizers will hold steady exhibitions for the artists there, said Kim. Olivenco will also work with non-profit groups such as UNICEF, Jeju Olle, Another Way of Seeing and World Art Therapy Association.

Olivenco products are sold through G market and at www.olivenco.com. T-shirt prices range from 49,000 won to 59,000 won. Offline shops will soon open at Gana Art Gallery in Pyeongchang-dong and at Garosugil in Sinsa-dong.

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)

남자분들, 란스미어 가보셨나요?

Classic suit multi shop attracts fashion savvy men

 

Shops offering selected items from many high-quality brands at one stop are steadily gaining ground. Those that feature casual clothes for men and women like 10 Corso Como, Daily Projects and Boon The Shop are already well-known among the fashion savvy.

What might be a bit less familiar is a multi-brand shop exclusively for men, featuring classic suits. Lansmere, Korea’s first multi-brand street shop for suits in Cheongdam-dong, southern Seoul, offers hand-made suits and accessories by some 50 British and Italian premium brands.

A man looks at jackets at Lansmere multi-brand shop in Cheongdam-dong, Seoul. Kim Myung-sub/ The Korea Herald

Meaning “the lake where the best wool grows” in Italian, Lansmere is actually the name of a high quality fabric -- Lansmere 220, the world’s first 170-yarn-count fabric, and Lansmere 230, a 230-yarn-count fabric -- produced by Cheil Industries.

Cheil Industries later launched Lansmere, a high-priced ready-made men’s suit brand in 2005 but two years later shifted to custom-made suits and renovated the shop into a multi-brand shop. Now, visitors can either choose their pick from the wide array of brands or order a Lansmere tailor-made suit at the shop.

“Lansmere is a very high-end brand, so it had its limits when it produced ready-made suits. You see, women have bags and jewelry to complete their fashion, but men’s only jewelry is watches. So fashion-savvy men focus on bespoke suits which are uniquely made for them. That is why we turned to custom-made suits,” said Alan Nam, brand manager at Lansmere.

Cufflinks of various designs showcased. Kim Myung-sub/ The Korea Herald

“Korean men tend to wear suits that are too big for them and think it is comfortable because it is big. That is not right. Suits that really fit you perfectly are those that are comfortable even if they are slim and tight around your body. Men who really know how to dress wear tailor-made suits. In Britain, about 10 to 15 percent of the men wear tailor-made suits but in Korea, only 3 to 4 percent do.”

Nam explained that classic, however, does not mean conservative.

“A classic suit means that it has tradition and value because it is of very high quality, made by master tailors. It stays the same for decades and it is something that a father and son can share. It makes the wearer look more attractive, younger and even sexier all the while being very comfortable,” said Nam.

Brands featured at the shop include suit brands Cesare Attolini, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea and Boglioli; shirt brands Orian and Fray; outerwear brands such as Herno, knitwear brands Paolo Pecola and Luciano Barberra, necktie brands Drake’s and Eredi Chiarini, sock brands like Sozzi Calze, shoe brands Tanino Crisci, Cordwainer, Enzo Bonafe, Sutor Mantellassi and Magnanni and accessory brands Bill Amberg and Pineider.

Whether the brands’ names are well-known among the Korean customers or not is not at all an issue when selecting the brands. Lansmere’s staff focus on finding handmade items of the best quality.

Colorful bowties grab attention. Kim Myung-sub/ The Korea Herald

“That is probably why our major customers are classic suit enthusiasts or self-employed men that know fashion and are financially well off. Executives or CEOs of large companies prefer to wear famous brands that are popular within their circles but our customers do not like logos that stand out too much and rather go for the real classic looks,” said Nam.

“I try on all the suits before contracting them, to see if they are really what we are looking for. Unlike machine-made suits which uncomfortably bind your body, handmade suits better adjust to your body with time.”

Nam emphasized that the shop does not sell “brands” but sells a “way of dressing.”

“I give tips to our customers on how to dress and how to organize their wardrobe. This jacket, for example, looks like it is a two-button jacket but is actually a three-button jacket. You are supposed to fasten only the middle button and let the top button naturally disappear from sight below the collars. You should never leave it at some random dry cleaners because they will iron it all wrong,” said Nam.

Nam added that a nice jacket, maybe brown or navy, is a must-have item in every men’s wardrobe.

A view of Lansmere multi-brand shop. Kim Myung-sub/ The Korea Herald

“It can be matched with any shirts or pants. If you want a formal look, match it with gray pants and if you want a brighter look, match it with light colors like sky blue, pink, orange or ivory. It is an economical and practical but a stylish way of dressing. But the jacket should be of really good quality.”

For more information on Lansmere, call (02) 542-4177.



By Park Min-young  (claire@heraldm.com)

Summer styling tips from Tory Burch

Tory Burch, one of the world’s hottest designers, held a styling class for VIP clients and some power bloggers last Thursday at the Tory Burch flagship store in Cheongdam-dong, southern Seoul, which opened on the previous day.

The Cheongdam store is the biggest of all Tory Burch’s shops and shows off a totally new concept. The first floor appears to be like any other boutique, but the second floor is decorated like a miniature of Burch’s home in New York, with a library and a living room.

“It was inspired by my apartment so it is different. Like the colors -- the walls are of green velvet in my house. But the place is very similar to my place, so when I first walked in here, I thought ‘Wow,’” said Burch.

Burch introduced nine different summer looks with the help of three models. The nine styles included a neutral dress accessorized with metallic jewelry, a black dress -- which became the brand’s number one seller after actress Gwyneth Paltrow was spotted in it -- with flesh-tone shoes that elongate the legs, and a boy-meets-girl look for which she matched a loose top that could have belonged to one’s husband or boyfriend with a very feminine sequin skirt. 

Tory Burch (second from left) poses with models after her styling class at the Tory Burch flagship store in Cheongdam-dong on June 24. Tory Burch

Among the showcased garments, the famous Tory Tunic, which made the brand famous, received many admiring looks from the audience.

“I actually got the idea for the design from a tunic I found at a flea market in Paris. I bought it for $30,” said Burch.

She also showed a dark knit-dress that can be perfect for both day and evening. The idea for the design came from a dress her mother used to wear in the 1960s. Burch confessed how she had coveted it so much and tried to steal it from her mother‘s closet.

More inspirations were found during her short stay in Korea, said Burch.

“I was inspired from how women dress here, how they put together different items in a way that looks nice and can also show their personalities,” she said.

“We’re working on smaller heels, which I guess it will work in your market, too, because I see many of you wearing small heels. I’m excited that I’ve already started.”

If you want to add some accent to your looks, try custom jewelry or belts, suggested Burch. No need to worry about matching them perfectly.

“I love when things don’t necessarily match. We just throw them in together and make them look chic,” said Burch.

Burch launched a fashion label named “TRB by Tory Burch,” which she later changed to “Tory Burch” -- in New York in February 2004. It was an immediate success, as the store was almost completely sold out on the opening day. The brand now has over 600 shops worldwide and records some 300 billion won in sales every year.





By Park Min-young  (claire@heraldm.com)

Simple, elegant: Bauhaus lifestyle at PKM

It takes more than just money to decorate your living room like this -- you also need outstanding aesthetic sense and historical knowledge.

Divided into many parts, PKM Trinity Gallery in Cheongdam-dong, southern Seoul, is showcasing miniature living rooms fully furnished with original fine furniture by designers from Bauhaus and also those from the subsequent modern classicism era for the exhibition “Bauhaus & Modern Classic -- SABO Collection.”

Bauhaus was a school founded in 1919 by Walter Gropius in Weimar, Germany, that aimed to combine crafts and fine arts. The post-World War I era saw an upsurge of radical experimentation in all the arts which was previously suppressed by the old regime. The school was closed under pressure from the Nazis in 1933 but the Bauhaus style still has a profound influence upon practically all aspects of life, including developments in art, architecture, graphic design, interior design, industrial design, and typography.

Bauhaus-style living rooms on display at PKM Gallery. PKM Gallery

Natural and elegant furniture by designers either from Bauhaus or by those inspired by it, including Egon Eiermann’s ergonomically designed chairs, Marcel Breuer’s famous “B32 Chairs,” Vico Magistretti’s colorful plastic chairs and lights and Poul Cadovius’ sectional wall shelves, are placed in perfect spots in the gallery.

Lim Sang-bong, a Korean illustrator and collector who goes by the name SABO, started collecting them piece by piece in 1990 when he went to Germany for his studies, and arranged them for this exhibition.

“It is not like other exhibitions that simply showcase original furniture. It is a collection by SABO, who picked out the best of the Bauhaus and modern classic furniture for the last 20 years based on his taste. The show intends to show the lifestyle and aesthetic sense of the time when the Bauhaus style first appeared,” said gallery director Park Kyung-mee.

The scale of the exhibition is big enough to doubt that a single person could have collected all of the exhibits. More than 50 pieces of furniture, ranging from tables, closets, sofas to lamps, mirrors and small household items from the 1920s to the 1970s are on display.

“I spent lots of time in flea markets because I fell in love with the vintage furniture and ornaments that can be found there. I also enjoyed rummaging through furniture thrown out on the streets, looking for precious treasures. Sometimes I traded my illustrations for the furniture I wanted but I had to work as a part-time forklift driver for a long time to earn money to collect furniture,” said SABO.

“I kept my collections in the empty basement, thanks to the landlord’s special consideration, and brought up different furniture to my room from time to time, to change the ambience. I’ve used every single piece of furniture exhibited here at least once. Chairs need to be used to be kept strong, you know.”

Bauhaus-style living rooms on display at PKM Gallery. PKM Gallery

SABO said that the core of Bauhaus style is “practical aesthetics.”

“Furniture should be comfortable. If it is comfortable, it is usually beautiful as well. Bauhaus style created practical and beautiful furniture that were not overpriced classic furniture or cheap and poorly-made furniture. In the process, it raised the quality of lifestyle for everyone. This design philosophy of Bauhaus was established in the 1920s but the concept influenced many designers that followed. The exhibits all go very well together because they come from the same mother (Bauhaus),” said SABO.

When he returned from Germany in 2005, his collection filled 10 shipping containers. The items in his collection that are not exhibited are tucked away in SABO’s storage back in Heidelberg, Germany, and also in Ilsan, Gyeonggi Province. Surprisingly, all are good as new.

“I only collected ones that are in good shape. These are all of very high value as they are no longer produced,” said SABO.

The exhibition runs through July 20 at PKM Trinity Gallery in Cheongdam-dong, southern Seoul. For more information, call (02) 515-9496 or visit www.pkmgallery.com.

By Park Min-young   (claire@heraldm.com)

Deck yourself out in World Cup cheer gear

The country is heating up for the much-anticipated game against Greece on Saturday night, Korea’s first 2010 World Cup match. Wherever you may be watching the game, be sure to prepare your World Cup cheer gear. This year, as usual, the key for the Korean team fans is to wear red.

The choice is yours, as numerous kinds of red t-shirts become available at stores as more and more companies are jumping in on the World Cup marketing craze.

Even the so-called “official” 2010 World Cup t-shirt is created by two different groups.

The first, authorized by the Korean Football Association is a basic red round-neck t-shirt with this year’s slogan “The Shout of Reds, United Korea,” splashed across the front in white.

The phrase was co-created by the Korea Football Association, Hyundai Motor and Red Devils supporter groups. The shirt is being sold exclusively at Homeplus discount outlets.

A feminine World Cup cheer look by Si (left) and official 2010 World Cup T-shirt authorized by the Korean Football Association.

K-League Supporters Union also designed their own official 2010 World Cup t-shirt, red and round-necked as well, with the year’s slogan “ALL THE REDS.” Fashion Group Hyungji, which has been supporting the KSU since last year, produced the shirts.

“The T-shirt has a “#” shaped pattern in the front, which symbolizes the undefeated record of King Gwanggaeto the Great of the Goguryeo Kingdom,” said Kim Seung-ho, a marketing team official at Hyungji.

Both of the “official” T-shirt makers claim that they are succeeding the famous official slogans “Be the Reds” in 2002 and “Reds Go Together” in 2006.

Women’s fashion brands such as Besti Belli and Si of Shinwon Group broke away from dull and square t-shirts and offer various styles of red shirts this year. More feminine and sexy, the shirts are designed to be worn even after the World Cup season.

Sportswear brands such as Kappa and Fila also present casual red t-shirts without any Red Devils or World Cup slogans so that they can be worn without feeling self-conscious afterward.

“This year, the World Cup cheer look is expected to be bolder and more varied compared to 2002 and 2006, from simple red t-shirts to reformed t-shirts and unique accessories,” said Gang Chu-gyung, a PR official at Shinwon Group.

The easiest way of reforming a boring red shirt into sexy gear would be either cutting the neck line deeper to turn it into an off-shoulder top or shortening the total length to turn it into a crop top.

“If the red color is too much for you, match a red striped shirt with beige or white shorts. But remember to match red sneakers or bags to complete the red look,” added Gang.

By Park Min-young  (claire@heraldm.com)

불가리 125주년 회고전

Bulgari looks back on 125 years of jewelry history

 

The Bulgari Korea staff received a desperate phone call from the headquarters office a few days before the Cannes International Film Festival: French actress Julliette Binoche was looking for a special platinum diamond necklace made by Bulgari in 1930.

Keira Knightly wears a dazzling Bulgari necklace decorated with sapphires, rubies, emeralds and diamonds at the 2006 Academy Awards. Bvlgari

The staff immediately sent the necklace, which had just arrived in Korea for the exhibition “Between History and Eternity: 1884-2009.”

The Cannes-winning French actress elegantly walked on the Cannes’ red carpet showing off the glamorous necklace with 131 diamonds, 137 karats in total, and returned it to Bulgari after the event.

That necklace and 66 more precious jewelries made by Bvlgari between 1884 and 2009 are on display at Hotel Shilla in Jangchung-dong, central Seoul. A bigger version of the exhibition, featuring some 500 pieces, was held in Rome and Australia last year to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the jewelry house. This is the first time the exhibition has come to Asia.

“It would be meaningless to try to value the price of the collection because they are not for sale. Bulgari kept some from the start and repurchased some at a much higher price to keep them in the archive. All pieces are literally one-of-a-kind,” said Bae Jee-in, Bulgari’s PR official.

Along with the stories behind the original owners of the pieces on display, the exhibition offers a brief look back on how jewelry has changed over more than a century.

The exhibition starts with silver ornaments made by Georgis Bulgari, father of Bulgari founder Sortirio Bvlgari, in the 1880s. Silver is still known to be too soft for delicate details but Bulgari’s silver buckles with shell-like details are very exquisite.

From the 1910s to the 1930s, the trend was all about “French style,” with extremely delicate diamond settings in platinum. From then pieces of jewelry became more colorful and bold, getting closer to the familiar Italian Bulgari style and reach the peak in 1950s to 1960s.

Bulgari’s emerald platinum necklace made in 1961, estimated to be worth at least 20 billion won. Bvlgari

One dazzling necklace decorated with 25 sapphires totaling 48 karats, 88 rubeis totaling 75 karats, 71 emeralds totaling 48 karats and 348 brilliant cut diamonds is simply breathtaking. The necklace, made in 1967, put actress Keira Knightly in the limelight at the 2006 Academy Awards.

Another must-see piece is the emerald platinum necklace made in 1961 which is estimated to be worth at least 20 billion won ($16.5 million), the most expensive in the exhibited collection. It is composed of 224 diamonds and seven cushion-shape emeralds which are of 118.46 karats in total.

The exhibition runs through June 15 at Hotel Shilla in Jangchung-dong, central Seoul. For more information, call (02) 2056-0100.

By Park Min-young  (claire@heraldm.com)

부산 프레타포르테 2010/11 F/W

Colorful garments lead Pret-a-Porter Busan

 

Vivid and witty designs are dominating the runway at Pret-a-Porter Busan, Korea’s second-largest fashion event, which ends its three-day run today at BEXCO.

Gerlan Jeans presents its 2010 F/W collection at Pret-a-Porter Busan on Thursday at BEXCO in Busan. Yonhap News

Gerlan Jeans, an up-and-coming brand among young New Yorkers that was first to showcase its new 2010 F/W collection at the event, offered an interesting combination of washed out denim, various prints and brilliant-colored clothes.

More international brands such as Dress Camp and Ganglion showcased their collections during the last two days, along with collections by local designers including Jo Myung-rae, Lee Young-hee, Gang Dong-jun and Go Tae-yong.

Today, more collections by international brands -- Yangdu, Horace -- and Korean designers Lie Sang-bong, Lee Jong-cheol and Ra Se-young will hit the catwalk.

Under the title “O.P.E.N.,” short for “Opportunity, Public Communication, Expert and Networking,” this year’s event aims to achieve better communication between local and international designers and buyers.

For more information, go to www.papbusan.com.

By Park Min-young   (claire@heraldm.com)

 

주얼리페어

Gems from around the world allure women

 

Not many women can resist sparkling jewelry. And it gets harder to resist when there is an exhibition hall full of them.

Hundreds and thousands of dazzling gems are stealing the hearts of many at the country’s biggest jewelry fair running at COEX in Samseong-dong, southern Seoul.

About 300 jewelry companies from around the world are showcasing their latest products at “Korea International Jewelry & Watch Fair 2010.”

Organized by Korea International Trade Association, the eighth jewelry fair is expecting some 30,000 visitors and buyers. Last year, about 25,000 people visited the fair to see the products by 282 participating companies.

Participating companies include Princess and Gembros from Korea, Manuelli Gioielli Firenze from Italy, Blumer from Germany and Teng Huat from Singapore.

This year’s show sees a significant trend toward bolder jewelry and designs with 3-D effects.

“Flower or butterfly designs used to be popular before, but this year we see more dynamic designs that feature seahorses, corals and even polar bears. Yellow gold seems to be back in town, as it perfectly matches animal print garments which many fashion designers showcased this season,” said the organizers.

“In the case of diamonds, the trend is to have it set on a black gold plated ring so that the diamonds will stand out even more due to the black and white contrast,” they added.

Visitors can also find the prizewinning works of this year’s International Jewelry Design Contest, the theme of which was "The Moments to Cherish," and 100 rough gemstones from Iksan Jewelry Museum at the fair.

“Korea International Jewelry & Watch Fair 2010” runs until tomorrow at the Atlantic Hall and Conventional Hall at COEX in Samseong-dong, southern Seoul. Admission is 10,000 won. No admittance to those under 15 years of age.

For more information, call (02) 6000-5549 or visit www.jewelfair.com

By Park Min-young   (claire@heraldm.com)

 

푸마, 탄소중립적 기업으로 재탄생

Puma aims to be first carbon neutral sportswear company

 

Fashion and sportswear companies have kept rather quiet about carbon footprints, while other industries competitively launch offset policies. Puma, however, says it is taking on an ambitious initiative to make an eco-friendly leap.

At “The Business for the Environment Summit” the world’s third-largest sport and lifestyle goods maker announced its goal to become the first carbon neutral company in the sportswear industry. The conference was held in Seoul on Thursday in observance of Earth Day.

“To be the first carbon neutral company is the next logical step in our mission to become the most desirable and sustainable company in the sport and lifestyle industry,” Jochen Zeitz, Chairman and CEO of Puma, told the press before giving his speech at the summit.

Co-hosted by the Ministry of Environment, Ministry of Knowledge Economy, UN Global Compact, World Wide Fund for Nature and the United Nations Environment Program, B4E is the world’s biggest summit to discuss a variety of environment-related issues. About 1,000 CEOs and high-profile figures participated in the three-day conference which ended yesterday.

Puma plans to tame its direct and indirect carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions by undertaking carbon-offsetting projects in Africa, while considering the needs of local communities and conservation of biodiversity. The company also aims to curb the carbon to be generated by the many Puma-sponsored national soccer teams when they take international and domestic air flights for the World Cup in South Africa this summer.

“We started a long-term sustainability program to reduce our energy and water consumption, waste and CO2 emissions by 25 percent by 2010. But that still leaves 75 percent. We are not quite yet ready to invest into new carbon neutral technologies. So we want to mitigate the remaining parts by offsetting carbon in Africa,” said Zeitz.

“Businesses should feel responsible for their carbon footprints. We are also taking UNEP’s challenge to offset our football teams’ international travels to South Africa very seriously. We hope in doing so that we inspire other stakeholders in the FIFA World Cup 2010 to follow suit,” the executive stressed.

The portfolio of Puma’s offsetting projects follow internationally accepted standards, such as the Clean Development Mechanism and the Gold Standard and Voluntary Emission Reduction standards.

Puma is making efforts to reduce carbon emissions internally as well. It has been collecting Environmental Key Performance Indicators from all its offices, warehouses and stores worldwide for the last five years to determine the company’s total carbon footprint on an annual basis.

The company also established a new Puma Vision Headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany last year which is the first carbon-neutral, company head-office in the sporting goods industry. In addition, the company will also require most of its other local offices to switch to electricity from renewable sources.

“PUMA will also support the offsetting of its employees’ carbon footprints by subsidizing those emissions generated on the way to and from work by 50 percent,” said Zeitz.

Puma’s carbon-cutting policy does not include CO2 emissions through transport and manufacturing of its products, but the company is making efforts in the area by introducing new packaging systems.

One of the key features is the “Clever Little Bag,” a combined shoe box and carrier bag which was unveiled last week. Designed by San Francisco based industrial designer Yves Behar, the bag is supposed to reduce water and paper use by more than 60 percent annually.

Why is it so clever? The designers explained that by providing structure to a cardboard sheet, the bag uses 65 percent less cardboard than the standard shoe box, has no laminated printing, no tissue paper, takes up less space and weighs less in shipping, and replaces the plastic retail bag.

Puma’s apparel collections will be bagged using sustainable biodegradable material as well, replacing current polyethylene, plastic and paper bags. This means that 720 tons of polyethylene bags, 192 tons of plastic and 293 tons of paper use can be avoided every year.

The roll out of the new packaging system is planned for the second half of 2011.

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)

Korean fashion designers head for Paris

Ten Korean fashion designers will be offering their works at the world’s biggest fashion trade show in Paris this year, the Seoul Metropolitan Government announced yesterday. It is part of the city’s “Seoul’s 10 Soul” project, which aims to globalize Korean fashion brands by 2020.

Michael Hadida (fifth from right) and Choi Hang-do (third from left), director of the global economic headquarters at the Seoul Metropolitan Government, pose with Korean designers selected as “Seoul’s 10 Soul.” (Seoul Metropolitan Government)

Tranoi, which started in 1993, is the most influential fashion trade show in the world with about 120 mens’ brands, 300 womens’ brands and more than 9,000 buyers participating each year. It is held quarterly.

The lucky designers are Gang Dong-jun, Sheen Je-hee and Choi Bum-suk for mens’ wear Kim Jae-hyun, Song Ja-in, Lee Suk-tae, Lee Seung-hee, Ju Hyo-sun, Choi Ji-hyung and Hong Hye-jin for womens’ wear.

They were selected during the Seoul Fashion Week which was held in March. Among 150 participants of SFW, 47 designers registered for the project. The candidates were narrowed down to 32 by seven Korean juries then to 10 by nine foreign juries. Both the jury panels were composed of press, buyers and professors. The key criteria included creativity, global competence, the brands’ business situation and production line in and out of Korea.

“They were selected; they meet the standards,” Michael Hadida, Tranoi's director, told The Korea Herald about the 10 designers.

“I’ve been looking closely at the designers at Seoul Fashion Week during the last two or three years and became confident about their potential and possibility to succeed in Paris. And I finalized the decision to participate in this project seeing Seoul city’s determination and passion.”

In Tranoi, the designers will not be given showrooms clustered together in a “Korean pavilion” but will each be designated a spot in one of the four venues -- Parc Royal, Carrousel du Louvre, Palais de la bourse, Montaigne -- based on the character of each brand.

“Tranoi is a fair that all designers dream of participating in. I thought of the fair ever since I debuted, but it was hard to participate as an individual artist due to financial problems and strict screening process. I was happy to know that Seoul city is supporting designers to participate in Tranoi,” said Choi Ji-hyung who runs her brand Johnny Hates Jazz.

Other than participating in Tranoi mens’ collection in June and womens’ collection in October, the designers will also showcase their works at “Seoul’s 10 Soul Collection” which will take place in Paris in October as well, just in time for the Paris Collection.

By the end of the year, one finalist among the 10 will be chosen and be provided full support for one full year in 2011, including a large-size showroom, promotion by Totem, Paris’ largest fashion brand PR company, and the opportunity to participate in 2011 Paris Collection.

This project, which Seoul city poured in 1 billion won ($9,750) this year, will be expanded every year, according to Seoul government.

“This year we only selected 10 for Paris, but will include another 10 for London next year, another 10 for New York the year after that and will continue sending about 30 designers to the three cities until 2020,” said Choi Hang-do, director of the global economic headquarters at the Seoul Metropolitan Government.

Among the 270 to 300 designers who will get to showcase their collections in the three big fashion cities, half will win the chance to get support for one full year and about three among them will become a global big brand like Chanel or Louis Vuitton by 2020, Choi explained.

Designers are hopeful about the project.

“It would be hard to turn a brand into something like Louis Vuitton or Chanel right away, but I do hope my brand will become a big brand like that, which can be prosperous for hundreds of years,” said Kim Jae-hyun director of her brand “Jardin de Chouette.”

“There are no buyers at Seoul Collection. So Korean designers focus on reporters and know pretty well what they want but don’t have the chance to meet buyers or know what they want. This is an opportunity to get close to the buyers,” said Choi Bum-suk, creative director of the brand “General Idea.”

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)

2010 봄 패션 트렌드!?

Lighten up for spring

 

Spring has finally elbowed its way through the unusually long and cold winter.

Fashion-savvy men and women, however, will not have much time to celebrate and show off their spring wardrobe because the spring season seems to be getting shorter and shorter every year.

“It’s too bad because spring clothes are usually the most stylish ones. Now that spring is so short, I’m going to need perfect clothes ready for just the right timing to fully enjoy the season,” said 24-year-old Jeon Hye-seong.

If you feel the same way, here are some key points for efficient shopping before hitting the major department stores for the annual spring sales that run through next weekend.

Look for soft colors … almost nude

Black and monotone colors managed to stay popular last spring, but they are not having such luck this time.

Fashion industry insiders expect that streets will be filled with pastel tone colors like Indian pink, azure, mint cream, extra light yellow and even neutral shades that appear almost nude.

Soft colors dominate most fashion houses’ spring collection, from top-notch brands like Bottega Veneta and Prada to fast fashion brands like Mango.

Bottega Veneta came up with light beige jackets that demonstrate elegant shoulder lines while Prada presented adorable pink beige flat shoes with tiny holes punched in as detail.

Calvin Klein also chose light beige color for its main mini dress line and added some wrinkles to it, giving it a whole new lovely look.

Featuring the theme “Pure Light,” Mango’s 2010 Spring Collection is based on colors that remind one of the Mediterranean sea such as white and blue and also neutral colors like light gray and beige.

Those who dare not take the risk of throwing off black -- the magic color that makes everyone look slimmer -- can try giving some spring-like touches with a soft colored scarf.

Ladies, get feminine

It is time to lose the power shoulder jackets and tough leather booties.

The trend this spring is garments adorned with ultra-feminine touches like laces, chiffon, ruffles or flower patterns.

Fashion brands like Chanel and Ralph Lauren included dresses and blouses overflowing with flower prints or laced flowers in their 2010 S/S collections. When wearing such outfits that remind of "Little House on the Prairie," sandals with wooden details are a perfect match.

More affordable brands for many, like Mango or Le Shop, also joined in on this romantic look trend by adding various laces, knots, ribbons to their shirts and dresses.

This trend is also evident in women’s accessories.

Chanel presented wooden sandals with big, vivid flowers on top and while Christian Dior decorated its mini-size shoulder bag with pink leather lace. Flower or feather detailed headbands are already commonly spotted in Seoul’s fashionable spots like Myeongdong or Apgujeong-dong.

A little tip to help you achieve the right balance: If you think you’ve overdone the feminine touch, tone it down a notch with a neutral tone biker jacket or a denim jacket.

Gentlemen, get slim

Classic look is out and urban casual is in.

“Classic suits were popular during the last two years but this spring, urban casual style in which suits and trendy casuals are mix and matched are expected be in fashion. Try wearing a navy blazer over striped shirts with chino pants. By adding brown toned loafers and maybe a bowtie, you can call yourself fashion-forward,” said Lim Seong-mi, menswear design director at Cambridge Kolon.

When choosing the jackets or pants to mix and match, go for slim. Jacket fits are slimmer, especially on the waist line. The emphasis on slim applies to pants as well.

“In the case of pants, one should keep the length a bit short and have it end a little bit above where the shoe starts,” advised Heo Hoe-cheol, a menswear MD at Lotte Department Store.

Check patterns will come in handy if one would like to add some accent to the style.

Trugen, a menswear brand, presents various check patterns in jackets, pants, suits and trench coats. The patterns are generally a bit lighter that those Trugen showed last autumn.

To give a chic finishing touch to your new spring look, consider carrying -- on your hand not on your back -- a matching big bag. Big bags are not just for women and definitely not a transient fashion fad but a keeper, even for men.

Ice-washed denim still hot

Denim is common, but also fashion-sensitive.

Fashion insiders say that ice wash denim is still in fashion, continuing its reign since the latter half of last year.

Zara, a Spanish fashion brand, for example, is promoting ice wash denim as one of its main lines this spring.

“The collection includes every garment possible in denim, starting from a pair of jeans, shorts, skirts, shirts, jackets and dresses,” said Seo Min-jeong, a Zara spokesperson.

Feel free to go a bit overboard with denim.

Wearing all pieces, like a pair of jeans or a jean skirt with a denim shirt, which was considered taboo in the last few decades, has made a fancy comeback. Several popular young singers are leading the trend, appearing on television in this retro fashion.

Of course, this does risk ending up a trend of only a minority of people, just like the high-rise jeans that came back on the map a few years ago but never successfully reached the broader public.

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldm.com)